Undercover Diner Gives Fratelli's a Second Chance

The last time I visited Fratelli Italian Kitchen & Wine Bar last spring; I left thoroughly unimpressed—disappointed enough that I never planned to return. But as all good daughters know, mom’s birthday trumps personal preference, so when she chose Fratelli for her celebratory dinner, I couldn't say no.

To my surprise? It was lovely. 

Located downtown on the Bluffwalk, Fratelli was quiet on the night we visited, which helped ease my skepticism. My mom had hoped to enjoy their live jazz night—previously held weekly on Wednesdays—but we learned it’s now only every other Wednesday. As it turns out, that change was for the better. The playlist that night featured soft French jazz drifting from the speakers, subtle and quiet enough for conversation. It created an ambiance that felt romantic but still casual, a rarity in downtown dining.

Our waitress—someone we knew—was a standout. She’s always warm, attentive, and genuinely good at her job. We felt taken care of in a way that’s becoming increasingly rare in the service world. She even indulged my sister’s picky palate by offering a mini wine tasting before she committed to a glass of Sauvignon Blanc. 

The drinks were simple but satisfying. I ordered a strawberry mojito mocktail and it was refreshingly bright without being syrupy. My dad opted for a lager, while my mom and sister sipped their carefully selected wines.

Food-wise, Fratelli has clearly turned things around.

My dad went for a Margherita pizza and gave it a glowing review, noting that “the crust holds up”—a reference to some pizza philosophy he’d read recently about the importance of structural integrity in a good pie. (He’s not wrong.)

My sister also went on the pizza route, ordering hers with cheese and chicken, and she loved it.

I ordered the Bolognese, not expecting much. But it turned out to be my favorite version of the dish ever. Pappardelle pasta was the ideal vehicle for the hearty beef ragu, and the addition of toasted mozzarella added just the right amount of comfort and richness. I liked it so much I was excited to eat the leftovers the next day, which says a lot coming from a former Fratelli skeptic.

My mom ordered the Italian crab cakes, which came with risotto and sautéed spinach. She especially loved the crab cakes—but I wasn’t a fan of the risotto. I usually enjoy it, but this version missed the mark for me flavor-wise. Still, that was my only real miss of the evening.

And then came dessert—complimentary, no less. Many restaurants have stopped offering free birthday desserts, but Fratelli is keeping the tradition alive. They brought out a creme brulee cheesecake for my mom, complete with a candle. It was rich, creamy, and delicious, and sharing it between the four of us made for a sweet end to a surprisingly delightful dinner.

Whatever changes Fratelli has made in the past year, they’re working. The service was excellent, the food consistently good (with one risotto exception), and the atmosphere far more inviting than I remembered.

Would I go back? Absolutely.

Fratelli, consider this your redemption arc—because this former critic is now a fan.

photos by Undercover Diner