Undercover Diner Visits Truss

Photos below by Undercover Diner

Sometimes the best part of dinner out with girlfriends is the dinner itself. Sometimes it’s the conversation, the drinks and the desserts that make the night.

My recent dinner at Truss, located on Bedford Avenue, was a little bit of both.

I went to Truss with a group of girlfriends last week, expecting to see the restaurant’s fall menu in place. I was surprised to find that the summer menu was still being served, which left me a little disappointed. I had been looking forward to seeing what the restaurant had transitioned to for the new season.

Still, Truss makes a cozy first impression. The restaurant’s low lighting creates an intimate atmosphere that feels particularly fitting for a girls’ night out. The lighting may be a little too low — even with the rechargeable lamps at the tables, it can be difficult to see everything on your plate — but there’s no denying that the space feels warm and inviting.

We started with the whipped feta dip, which came with hot honey dates, lemon oil, pistachio, and grilled flatbread. I arrived a little late and didn’t get to try it myself, but my friends were quick to tell me it was incredibly good.

For dinner, two of my friends split the crispy-skinned salmon, which was $38 and came with local tomatoes, spring greens, rice middlins, red curry and coconut broth. The kitchen split the dish onto two plates, and while the portions looked quite small that way, both friends said they enjoyed the dish.

Two other friends ordered the salmon as well, along with the grilled pork chop. The pork chop came with a smoky and spicy jalapeño corn relish and was topped with a sweet peach and pear chutney.

Unfortunately, my pork chop was overcooked and dry, which was a real disappointment — especially at $38. My friends’ pork, however, was cooked properly, was tender, and delicious. The jalapeño corn relish was my favorite part of my plate, with just the right amount of flavor and spice.

The bigger issue for me was that I simply didn’t find much on the menu that I was particularly excited about. Truss does offer steak and fries, but at $50, it’s a significant jump in price for what is otherwise a straightforward entrée.

We ordered several desserts to share, including peach and ginger crisp with a gluten-free crisp topping, cinnamon, and vanilla ice cream. We also ordered two servings of sticky toffee pudding, a warm date cake with toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream.

But my favorite was the Meyer lemon posset, which came with speculoos cookie crumble and vanilla whipped cream. It has long been one of my favorite desserts on the Truss menu, and it did not disappoint. The bright lemon flavor paired perfectly with the creamy dessert and cookie crumble.

Drinks also played a significant role in our evening. Two of my friends are pregnant, so they opted for nonalcoholic drinks and decaf coffee, while the rest of us enjoyed Aperol spritzes or bubbly.

We eventually moved on to nightcaps. One friend ordered Return of the Mac, a $15 cocktail made with white chocolate and macadamia nut liqueur, vanilla vodka, dark brown sugar syrup, and cream.

Two of us ordered espresso martinis, and I have to say, they were excellent — easily among the better espresso martinis I’ve had in town.

Overall, my experience at Truss was a mixed one. The atmosphere was cozy, the drinks were enjoyable and dessert was the highlight of the meal. I also liked several components of the food, particularly the jalapeño corn relish and Meyer lemon pot.

But my own entrée left me disappointed, particularly considering the $38 price tag, and I found myself wishing there had been more on the menu that caught my attention.

For me, Truss was more successful as a place to linger over cocktails and dessert with friends than it was as a dinner destination on this night. The experience will be different once the restaurant rolls out its next menu.